With their distinct brand of street futurism New York brand Hood By Air have created the silhouette to a new dawn. Even A$AP Rocky is getting a part of it, and can be seen wearing the label in the video for ‘Wassup’! We spoke to designer Shayne Oliver, who gave us some insight into his vision, motivation and inspirations for the label.
SS: Starting at the beginning what was the initial inspiration to pursue a career in fashion? Were you a fashionable kid?
SO: I felt like there was a void within the concept of clothing. It was missing a certain voice. I had always been interested in fashion. I was always making my own clothing from a very young age. My experiences as a preteen/ teenager led me to the voice that is Hood By Air.
SS: Does your own style reflect or differ from the clothes in the collections?
SO: It reflects more than differs. For a while it differed because I wore
way more than a t-shirt/sweatshirts on a regular basis, but as the concepts within the company have grown I have grown more as an individual. Spring 10 was actually the first season that had patterns we designed from scratch…
SS: Who were the first people around New York to pick up on your stuff? Where did it find its feet on the cultural landscape there? Who was wearing it in the early days?
SO: We started like most brands do, making clothing for friends and ourselves. The first store to buy the collection was Seven New York.
SS: Was it something that was quite localised when it was conceived, i.e could only have happened in NYC, or was the vision always more global? Where do you feel your stuff is most naturally at home, on the catwalk, the streets or in the clubs?
SO: Everything about Hood By Air is straight up NY. We are constantly inspired by the streets, people and life we get from this city, its home.
SS: I’ve read fun listed as a key principle of the brand, yet your pieces could be seen as being quite dark and minimal. How do you feel the fun is incorporated into the clothing? Do you feel you’ve cornered a niche aesthetic?
SO: The fun comes from myself I guess… The fun I picture myself having in these clothes. The feeling that I’m comfortable in the way I look and feel. It creates this carefree attitude for me. Of truly illustrating a state of mind… I’m also very attracted to the darkness of nightlife. Having the time of your life while the sun and most of the world is tucked away and streets are lit by pure electricity. This is exciting to me. What excites me even more, however, is when these clothes are worn during the daylight.
SS: Your stuff seems to share an easy synchronicity with some of the music that’s out at the moment, in particular stuff like Salem, which treads a broody line between darkness and euphoria. Does music play a role in your inspiration process?
SO: I am extremely synchronized with music. I often think of how things will look with certain music or with silence. I truly believe clothing should have a white noise… Something numbing. When it comes to Hood By Air I often like to use new sounds so there is no room for pre-associated reference. New music also has this tendency to create these lifelong staples in your mind. Where you were, how you felt. This is truly euphoric to me.
SS: What are your thoughts on Streetwear? Is it an affectionate relationship or something altogether more subversive? Is the street and the underground in general still a valid source of inspiration?
SO: Streetwear is cliquey and is heavily based on testosterone. Which is great. It draws importance and substance to simplicity through lifestyle and association. That is an attitude that will remain a huge inspiration to menswear, since this is a huge part of how men think in general. I’m not necessarily interested in the literal attributes of streetwear but rather the attitudes and understanding of men dress in general. The streets, on the other hand, are where the magic happens. They always have the most current attitudes, thoughts, reasoning, etc.
SS: Any plans for womenswear?
SO: YES.
See Hood By Air designs in the A$AP Rocky ‘Wassup’ video:
Interview: Charlotte Roberts
